The resort town of Banos sits in the narrow Tie Pastaza gorge among the soaring green hills which are streaked with waterfalls.. It enjoys a mild, almost subtropical climate and is wonderfully scenic. It sits under the unpredictable Tungurahua volcano which has become something of a draw to tourists who flock to high vantage points on cloudless nights to watch it spit lava into the sky. We found the town to be very touristy, overrun with taffy shops and stores willing to sell you any sort of souvenir. But good food and drink are plentiful. We had a great late lunch at Cafe Mariane which has a french atmosphere and seemed to have reasonable prices for dinner.
There is plenty to do in and around Banos for the adventuresome such as hiking, cycling, horse riding and rafting. There is even a thermal bath where you can relax and sooth those sore muscles after an over-active day.
Because of the unpredictability of Tungurahua which, if it erupts, cuts off all escape access, we stayed out of town at Hacienda Leito. This is a beautiful ranch-like facility situated on the mountain slopes south of Banos is a scenic setting. We had a spectacular dinner and walked the grounds afterwards enjoying the sun cast a golden glow across the valley of farms and plantations.
Things to do
Go Crazy. Hike up and around the Tungurahua volcano and checkout the Bellavista viewpoint, raft in the Rio Pastaza, enjoy a ride on horseback through the hills and valleys, jump off the bridge (hopefully with a bungeline attached) or zip-line through the gorge. There are numerous tour operators to help you organize your excursions and after you are done why not grab a massage and enjoy the hot spring baths at a spa. Many of the hotels have their own private spas but you can also enjoy a great treatment at Stay in Touch Therapeutic Massage.
Where to Stay: As we didn’t stay in Banos proper you might wish to consult you tour guide books for recommendations if you are keen on staying in town. But the drive out to Hacienda Leito where we stayed hosts some spectacular views which one can enjoy if you are not driving. The road up one side of the mountain narrows to one lane and can be unnerving with no guard rails. But the hacienda is situated on a hillside in the county where you can wakeup to be greeted by the sounds of birds calling as you sit on your veranda enjoying a coffee in the sunrise looking down into the valley.